Chopard Mille Miglia 2022 Race Edition

The Chopard Mille Miglia 2022 Race Edition is another piece in a long line, which will hopefully continue to grow even longer.

For those familiar with the brand, the new Mille Miglia dedicated to the race of the same name will come as no surprise. However, they might struggle to say exactly which edition this is in the series. This is already the 35th time that the brand has acted as the official timekeeper and sponsor of the Italian classic car race. That’s a considerable span of time, especially in the watch industry, where collaborations usually run for a few years before quietly fading away.

The secret to this long-standing relationship is the passion for classic cars of one of the brand's co-owners. He has built a rather impressive collection, which includes only a small slice of his most prized vehicles: the Ferrari 750 Monza, Aston Martin Ulster, Porsche 356 Speedster, Alfa 1900, and Mercedes 300 SL. The latter, the Mercedes, is the car he personally uses to participate in Mille Miglia races. Of course, he attends watch fairs not with this car, but with a Bentley T2. In short, he does not view his cars as investment instruments. Even if they are in pristine condition, they need to be driven and maintained.

Similar Models

In a similar philosophy, the race editions—mostly equipped with chronographs—have been created. Naturally, they are produced in limited quantities, so only 1,000 pieces of this year's race model are available, while only 250 pieces include gold elements. These are partly purpose-built tools, as supported by the case size. The 44 mm diameter hardly allows for any other explanation. That it is not merely a cold instrument is ensured by the small details and careful decoration. In absolute terms, the Mille Miglia collection is not an entry-level category, but among the brand’s three collections, it is the introduction to their world.

This is so true that the cases are manufactured in a different location than where the L.U.C. and Alpine Eagle models are produced. It is also true that only this collection uses calibers sourced externally. Nevertheless, the aforementioned details and finishing ensure that this is not just a generic motorsport-inspired chronograph.

Chopard Mille Miglia 2022 Race Edition – Ceramic-inlaid bezel with a finely lined tachymeter scale / Photo: Áron Venicz

Details

To give concrete examples: The indices are applied, which is almost self-evident. The more interesting detail lies in their segmentation. When a date window is placed somewhere on the dial, for example on the right side, the length of the adjacent index is usually shortened while the others retain their original length. This is not the case with this watch. Here, all four main positions (12, 3, 6, 9 o’clock) feature indices of identical size, which differ in length and thickness from the other indices. This achieves two things at once. First, the subdials (top and bottom) can be larger, increasing the usability of the chronograph since larger indices are easier to read. Second, it evokes crosshair-style dials. Coincidentally—or not—these were popular in the 1950s, and the 300 SL comes from which decade? Yes, the 1950s. There are no coincidences.

Chopard Mille Miglia 2022 Race Edition – As balanced as possible / Photo: Áron Venicz

The same could be said about the dial’s silver color, and partly we would be right. It is no coincidence that Mercedes cars earned the nickname Silberpfeil (Silver Arrow). True, that was back in the 1930s, but it’s not accidental that we associate silver when imagining the color of a Mercedes sports coupe. However, the Chopard co-owner’s Mille Miglia Mercedes is not silver but bright red, just like the race logo itself. Incidentally, red has traditionally been the color of Italian motorsport. Some of it made its way onto the dial as well, albeit sparingly. The chronograph hands feature it, and of course, the Mille Miglia logo stands out in red. Surely there are brands that would highlight their name in a similarly striking color. This watch, however, truly emphasizes the racing experience, with Chopard contributing only as an accessory.

Chopard Mille Miglia 2022 Race Edition – Leather exterior, rubber interior, and robust, smoothly closing hinge clasp / Photo: Áron Venicz

7750

Similar motorsport references can be found on the side of the case, around the "controls." On the crown, instead of the usual brand logo, there is a steering wheel, and the pushers feature textured surfaces reminiscent of pedals. These design elements are functional as well. While Chopard does have its own chronograph movement (L.U.C 03.03-L) with a flyback function and chronometer certification, introduced back in 2006, it is not an entry-level caliber and until 2019 was only offered in precious metal cases. The 2022 Mille Miglia preserves only the chronometer certification, using the well-known 7750 movement. Due to its construction, more force is required to operate it compared to column-wheel counterparts, but when it comes to vintage-inspired design, that’s probably a good thing. Operating a car built in 1955 also required more physical effort than handling a modern vehicle (assuming it runs on gasoline at all).

Chopard Mille Miglia 2022 Race Edition – “Steering Wheel” and “Pedals” / Photo: Áron Venicz

A perennial aesthetic challenge with the 7750 movement is resolving the asymmetry on the dial. Chopard approached this in two ways. First, they emphasized the vertical segmentation of the dial as much as possible. They did so by decorating only the outer half of the subdials with a concentric circle pattern, while the small seconds subdial received the pattern in full. Second, the small seconds dial is slightly smaller in diameter. This smaller size helps visually balance the right side of the dial. The ultimate solution, however, is not on the dial itself but on the sapphire crystal, in the form of a magnifier. This optical enhancement makes the date window appear larger, effectively balancing it with the small seconds subdial.

Chopard Mille Miglia 2022 Race Edition – 44 mm clearly visible and tangible on a 17 cm wrist / Photo: Áron Venicz

Luxury

As mentioned, while the Mille Miglia is an entry-level model for the brand, it is by no means an entry-level watch in absolute terms. This is reflected in the price as well. For €7,890 (or €11,600 with gold elements), other well-known brands even offer chronographs with in-house calibers. Therefore, this timepiece is likely not intended for those primarily motivated by investment potential. It is much more suitable for enthusiasts who have a connection to the world of classic motorsport, those who appreciate the small details that come together to form a cohesive whole while remaining understated compared to many modern models. And of course, it is for those who can genuinely afford luxury, considering that the basic entry fee for the Mille Miglia itself already exceeds €10,000.

You can purchase the watch here: Chopard Mille Miglia 2022 Race Edition

This article originally appeared on ÓraMagazinOnline: https://www.oramagazin.hu/